Chester Castle viewed from the air

History of Chester Castle

William the Conqueror founded Chester Castle in 1070 to enforce Norman rule. A year later, he gave it to his nephew, Hugh d’Avranches, and made him Earl of Chester. The new castle guarded the border with Wales and controlled an important inland port. The earls of Chester ruled over the region like kings until Henry III acquired the title, castle and lands in 1237. Chester Castle underwent many changes over the centuries, but remained the centre of military and legal power in the city.

The Agricola Tower, built in around 1200, contains a hidden gem – the chapel of St Mary de Castro, with rare and beautiful wall paintings dating to around 1240.

Aerial view of the city of Chester with the castle in the foreground and the positions of the Roman fort and amphitheatre outlined
Aerial view looking north-east showing the castle in relation to the ancient city of Chester. To the right, Old Dee Bridge, built in the mid 14th century, leads into the straight line of the Roman road that ran through the centre of the legionary fortress (outlined). The Roman amphitheatre (circled) lay just outside the fort’s south-east corner
© Historic England (photo Paul Davis)

Before the castle

The castle stands on a sandstone promontory that dominates the river Dee. What was there before 1066 is unknown, but demolition of the castle walls in the 18th and 19th centuries revealed Roman stonework, recycled from Roman ruins that presumably lay nearby.

The Romans initially built a fort overlooking the Dee, naming it Deva after the river. Its layout shaped today’s city. Civilians settled outside the defences and Deva quickly became an important port, with riverside wharves and warehouses. When the legions (heavily armed infantry) returned to mainland Europe in the early 5th century, many auxiliary soldiers (originally recruited from across the empire) and their families stayed on.

In about 616, the Northumbrian king Æthelfrith defeated a Welsh army at Chester and perhaps repaired the Roman walls. Probably in 689, King Æthelred of Mercia built the church of St John the Baptist, which later became the city’s first cathedral. It lay outside the fort, suggesting that the focus of settlement had shifted towards the river.

When Æthelred’s health worsened, his queen, Æthelflæd, continued to defend Mercia against Viking raids. In about 907, she made Chester a burh, or defended town, by repairing the Roman walls and extending them to enclose the promontory where the castle now stands. By 1066, when the Norman Conquest began, Chester was a prosperous town with perhaps 3,000 residents. Roman ruins still survived.

Engraving from 1656 showing an imagined scene of Hugh d’Avranches sitting in parliament with the barons and abbots of the County Palatine of Chester, a region that he ruled like a king
Engraving from 1656 showing an imagined scene of Hugh d’Avranches sitting in parliament with the barons and abbots of the County Palatine of Chester, a region that he ruled like a king
© Wenceslaus Hollar, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

William the Conqueror’s castle

William the Conqueror’s victory at the Battle of Hastings was followed by years of uprisings. In 1069–70 the earldom of Mercia, which included modern Cheshire, rebelled. Once the rebels were defeated, William built a castle in Chester. He sited the earth and timber defences on the promontory overlooking the river crossing, outside the Roman fortress but protected on one side by a cliff.

Early Norman castles typically had a motte (a high, conical mound), topped by a timber tower, overlooking a bailey (a level area protected by a bank topped by a wooden palisade), which contained stables and so on. Until recently, the large earthen mound that supports the medieval Flag Tower was thought to be a motte.

But a recent archaeological survey suggests that William may have built a ‘ringwork’ – a ring-shaped bank and ditch. If so, the castle’s so-called outer ward (mostly covered by today’s car park), which historians have assumed was a later addition, was perhaps also built in 1070.

In 1071, King William gave the castle to his nephew, Hugh d’Avranches (d.1101), and made him Earl of Chester. The large earldom was very profitable. By 1086, its annual income was £136 (about £1 million today).

With a stronghold close to the Welsh border, Hugh spent years fighting the Welsh and eventually made himself ruler of much of north Wales. Due to his savagery in battle, he was nicknamed ‘the Wolf’.

A castle courtyard with brick buildings in the background and people and horses in the foreground
A reconstruction showing how the inner ward may have looked in the 1260s, with the surviving Agricola Tower to the right and the lost gateway that replaced it, possibly in the 1220s, to the left
© Historic England/English Heritage Trust (illustration by Dextra Visual)

The stone castle

By 1157, the castle was comfortable and impressive enough to host a meeting between Henry II and Malcolm IV, King of Scots. Two years later, Henry spent £122 (around £220,000 today) on the defences. The castle still belonged to the earls of Chester, but the king took control because the earl at that time was a child.

From about 1189 Ranulf de Blondeville, 6th Earl of Chester, gradually rebuilt the defences in stone. The Flag Tower and the Agricola Tower, the castle’s earliest stone gatehouse, are survivors from this period. In 1210, Ranulf invaded north-west Wales from Chester.

The Agricola Tower is now named after the Roman general who conquered Wales, but it has also been called Julius Caesar’s or simply Caesar’s Tower. Originally, there were probably double doors at the outer end of the gate passage, plus a bridge across the wide external ditch. The doorway was eventually blocked up. The inner archway was rebuilt around 1302, when the tower was converted into an office and strongroom for the earl’s treasurer.

Beyond the ditch lay a large, horseshoe-shaped bailey, today mostly covered by the car park. If this was first built in 1070, Ranulf probably left the perimeter as an earthen bank topped by a wooden palisade, with a gateway facing towards the city. The bailey contained stables, barns, workshops and accommodation.

Portrait of Ranulf de Blondeville (1170–1232), 6th Earl of Chester, from 1578
Portrait of Ranulf de Blondeville (1170–1232), 6th Earl of Chester. He is shown wearing a style of armour that was in fashion in 1578, when the portrait was painted
© Chester Town Hall

Ranulf de Blondeville

Ranulf, 6th Earl of Chester, was probably born in Mid Wales in 1170, but his ancestors were Norman. A small man, he was described as having a ‘violent and ambitious temper’. He loyally supported a series of English kings, as long as he was well rewarded.

When he was about 18, Ranulf married Constance, the powerful Duchess of Brittany and King Richard I’s sister-in-law. About eight years later, in 1196, he was involved in a botched political plot. King Richard ordered him to kidnap Constance, together with Arthur, her son by her first marriage and Richard’s heir, and to hold them captive at a castle in Normandy. Richard then marched his army to ‘rescue’ them. The plan was contrived to assert Richard’s power over the Duchy of Brittany, but it quickly fell apart. Ranulf continued to hold Constance captive, and when he was forced to release her almost two years later, she immediately began divorce proceedings.

Ranulf fought in King John’s war against the Welsh in 1209–12. In 1218, he sailed to Egypt to take part in the Fifth Crusade, and soon after his return began building castles at Beeston in Cheshire and Bolingbroke in Lincolnshire to consolidate his power bases.

During his long absences, Ranulf’s chief official, or constable, Roger de Lacy, looked after Chester Castle. Roger was another wealthy knight, who also travelled widely. He once rescued Ranulf from a siege at Rhuddlan in Wales by convincing the Welsh that a crowd of minstrels and other ‘loose characters’ he had recruited at Chester fair was actually an army.

A reconstruction of the chapel in the Agricola Tower at Chester Castle, with brightly coloured wall paintings
A reconstruction of the chapel in the 1240s
© Historic England/English Heritage Trust (illustration by Dextra Visual)

A royal chapel

When Ranulf’s nephew, the last Earl of Chester, died without an heir in 1237, Henry III acquired the castle and earldom. He completed renovations costing over £570 (about £700,000 today) before his first visit.

Probably as part of this work, the chapel of St Mary de Castro (castrum is a Latin word for castle), on the first floor of the Agricola Tower, was decorated with high-quality paintings. These are now faded and fragmentary, but fortunately a local artist, John Musgrove, made detailed drawings in 1817, when they were in better condition.

The chapel was for the private use of the king and nobles staying in the castle. Parts of the structure were painted to look like marble. Most of the scenes on the walls showed miracles linked to the Virgin Mary, including her interceding on behalf of sinners – an appropriate theme for a chapel, where people came to confess their sins.

The east wall featured miracles associated with King Edward the Confessor (d.1066), an English saint particularly admired by Henry III. On the ceiling are scenes from Jesus’ childhood and several Old Testament prophets.

Read more about the wall paintings
The death and mutilation of Simon de Montfort at the Battle of Evesham, depicted in an early 14th-century manuscript
The death and mutilation of Simon de Montfort at the Battle of Evesham, depicted in an early 14th-century manuscript
© British Library Board (Cotton Nero D.II fol 177)

The Barons’ War and the siege of 1265

In 1254 Henry III’s eldest son, the future Edward I, married Eleanor of Castile. As a wedding gift, the king gave them Chester Castle and the old earldom, plus land in France, Ireland and Wales.

But Henry’s barons were growing angry with his unwillingness to reform his style of government. In 1264 Simon de Montfort and other barons rebelled. At the Battle of Lewes, in Sussex, they defeated the king’s army and took Prince Edward hostage.

After a year in captivity, Edward gave Chester Castle and its lands to Simon in return for his freedom, although Edward claimed to have escaped. Hearing this, James de Audley and Urian de Saint Pierre, barons who were loyal to Edward, laid siege to the castle on 31 May 1265. The garrison, led by Lucas de Taney, resisted strongly, although the details of the fighting are unknown.

After taking the rebel forces by surprise at Kenilworth Castle, Warwickshire, Edward, with a large army, confronted Simon again on 4 August at the Battle of Evesham in Worcestershire. Simon and his eldest son were killed. When Lucas de Taney heard the news, he surrendered, after a siege that had lasted ten long weeks. Edward returned from Evesham to occupy Chester.

An engraving of a gatehouse with twin D-shaped towers
An engraving of the outer gatehouse, rebuilt by Edward I. It was demolished in the 1780s
© Historic England Archive

Edward I and the conquest of Wales

Soon after he became king in 1272, Edward I chose Chester as his main base for the conquest of Wales. Between 1275 and 1301, he spent over £1,400 (about £1 million today) on improving the castle, both to prepare it for war and to make it a comfortable royal residence. He stayed there five times.

Edward brought building timber from nearby Delamere Forest and Ewloe Forest in Wales, and began many construction projects, especially in the outer bailey. When the work was complete, Chester resembled Edward’s great castles in Wales.

Edward also rebuilt the outer gatehouse. It was demolished in the 1780s, but early images show that it had twin D-shaped towers, like the castles he built at Rhuddlan, Beaumaris and Conwy in Wales. A similar gateway, perhaps dating to the 1220s, stood next to the Agricola Tower, controlling access into the inner ward.

As well as a military stronghold, the castle was a high-status residence. For the city of Chester, a royal visit boosted the economy, while the castle became crowded with nobles and servants. The beautiful chapel in the Agricola Tower was maintained. Thomas the Gardener redesigned a small private garden, possibly within the broad ditch separating the inner and outer wards.

An aerial reconstruction showing how Chester Castle may have looked in about 1320, looking across the outer ward
A reconstruction showing how the castle may have looked in about 1320, looking across the outer ward © Historic England/English Heritage Trust (illustration by Dextra Visual)
Black and white portrait of Sir William Brereton,
A portrait of William Brereton, made in 1647. Brereton was appointed commander-in-chief of the Parliamentarian forces in Cheshire in 1643, and negotiated the eventual surrender of Chester in early February 1646 after a long siege
© National Portrait Gallery, London

The castle in the English Civil Wars

After about 1450, royal owners paid for repairs to the castle, but no major upgrades. Increasingly, it was used as a prison, court and barracks for troops on campaign, as well as the administrative centre of the earldom.

As the gateway to north Wales and Ireland, Chester was strategically important during the English Civil Wars (1642–6). The Royalist governor of the city, John, Lord Byron, made the castle his headquarters. The opposing Parliamentarian forces were commanded by Sir Willliam Brereton, a well-educated and widely travelled Cheshire landowner.

Fighting began early in 1643. It intensified on 20 September 1645 when the Parliamentarians overran the suburbs. They established a gun battery in St John’s churchyard, which soon breached the city wall. King Charles I himself arrived with reinforcements, but when his army was defeated, he gave the governor permission to surrender.

Despite being heavily outnumbered, the 1,600 defenders stubbornly fought on. But the following winter was bitterly cold. With about 6,000 civilians packed into the city, food and fuel ran short, and occasional Parliamentarian bombardments worsened morale. Negotiations for a surrender began on 20 January 1646.

Two weeks later, Brereton’s soldiers marched into Chester. The defenders were allowed to leave unharmed, apart from the reinforcements brought from Ireland, who were taken prisoner. Poorly supplied, the Irish were accused – rightly or wrongly – of stealing clothing and food. Their presence had certainly increased tensions in Chester, and they were treated more harshly as a result.

An engraving showing the medieval buildings of Chester Castle
The outer ward before many of its buildings were demolished in the 1780s
© West Cheshire Museums

The castle transformed

The castle was falling into disrepair even before the Civil War bombardments. There was some investment in an armoury and workshops in the inner ward in the 1680s. Buildings in the outer ward remained in use as a gaol. Prisoners included Jacobites – supporters of the deposed Stuart royal dynasty – who rebelled across Scotland and northern England in 1715 and 1745. Many men, women and even children were imprisoned here awaiting trial. Some died in the crowded, unhealthy conditions.

By the 1770s, however, conditions for prisoners being held in the outer gatehouse were considered unacceptable, and from the late 18th century the castle was gradually but dramatically transformed. The architect Thomas Harrison won a competition to design a new prison, which was completed in 1793 on the south side of the outer ward. Its efficient, modern design was considered outstanding and it remained in use until it was demolished in 1900.

Engraving of a courtyard surrounded by neoclassical buildings, with a gateway in the foreground that resembles the entrance to a Greek temple
The outer ward after Thomas Harrison’s monumental transformation. The huge new gateway in the foreground, resembling the entrance to a Greek temple complex, gave access to a semicircular courtyard flanked by neoclassical buildings
© Historic England Archive

Harrison, who had studied classical architecture in Rome, went on to replace the other buildings of the outer ward, building the impressive Shire Hall, which now houses the Crown Courts, along with a barracks and an armoury, also in neoclassical style. Finally he added a monumental gateway called the ‘propylaeum’, which mimics the outer entrance to the temple complex on the Acropolis in Athens.

Meanwhile, the Agricola Tower was used as a warehouse and ammunition store. A doorway was cut through the chapel wall to allow barrels of gunpowder to be lifted in.

Harrison’s grand design involved demolishing most of the castle’s remaining medieval buildings, including all the defences of the outer ward, and kept him employed until 1822. It transformed the appearance of the castle and overwhelmed the few medieval structures that survived. But the new buildings continued to embody the functions of the old castle: legal and military power.

An army base

John McCafferty, who masterminded a daring raid on the armoury at Chester Castle in 1867, to supply arms for a Fenian uprising against British rule in Ireland

John McCafferty, who masterminded a daring – but ultimately unsuccessful – raid on the armoury at Chester Castle in 1867, to supply arms for a Fenian uprising against British rule in Ireland. McCafferty was arrested in Dublin and sentenced to death, but was released under amnesty in 1871 and returned to the United States © National Library of Ireland

Napier House, opposite the back of the Agricola Tower, was built in 1830 as an armoury for 30,000 rifles and barracks for 120 soldiers. In February 1867, the huge stockpile of rifles and ammunition caught the attention of Irish Republicans, who called themselves Fenians and were determined to end British rule in Ireland.

John McCafferty, an Irish American who had fought in the American Civil War, devised an ambitious plan for a raid on the armoury. He would gather a large force of Republican supporters from Liverpool and elsewhere, storm the castle, steal the rifles and ammunition, hijack a train to the port of Holyhead, sail back to Dublin, and launch well-armed uprisings. McCafferty’s plan was betrayed at the last minute, but he was able to warn the 1,300 assembled Republicans. Most escaped in the night, but a few were caught and hanged. The uprisings in Ireland went ahead in March 1867 but, without the guns, the Fenians were defeated.

In 1873, the castle became the base for two local battalions that were soon reorganised to become the Cheshire Regiment. The castle remained the headquarters of the regiment until 2007, when the Cheshires were merged with two other county units to become today’s Mercian Regiment.


Find out more

  • VISIT CHESTER CASTLE

    Discover what there is to see at Chester Castle, including the Agricola Tower and the rare and beautiful medieval wall paintings in its first-floor chapel.

  • The Chester Castle Chapel Wall Paintings

    Explore the miracles and other stories depicted in the chapel wall paintings with our digital reconstruction.

  • Visit Chester Roman Amphitheatre

    Near the castle are the remains of the largest Roman amphitheatre in Britain, which lay just outside the legionary fortress.

  • Visit Beeston Castle

    Crowning a sandstone crag that towers over the Cheshire Plain, Beeston Castle is one of the most dramatically sited fortresses in England.