Inspire Me

5 Things You Might Not Know About Clothes That Kept Us Warm and Dry Through History

Recent scientific analysis estimates that humans may have been wearing clothing as far back as 170, 000 years ago, corresponding with the beginning of an ice age. It stands to reason that humans invented clothes as an attempt to stay warm and dry.

But how much do you know about the evolution of our clothing? Read on to find out more about historical fashion and its many functions...

 

Otzi, the Iceman, in the Museum of Archeology in Bolzano, Italy. © Alamy

1. Ötzi the Iceman had clothing made from at least five different animals

Ötzi the Iceman is one of the oldest frozen mummified humans ever found and is thought to have lived in around 3300BC. At least five different animals helped to make up his clothing, including sheep and goat hides stitched together to make a coat, a bear fur hat and goat leather leggings. Analysing the skins that made up his wardrobe has provided scientists with clues about the type of society he lived in, suggesting that he was part of an agricultural farming society, rather than a more primitive hunter-gatherer group.

Leather shoe with possibly its matching sole from Housesteads Roman Fort

2. The Romans introduced us to weatherproof shoes

When the Romans arrived in Britain they brought advanced technological processes, one of which was a new method of leather processing. The changes introduced led to water-resistant leather, and the remains of several waterproof shoes have been found in the areas around Hadrian’s Wall.

Warm clothing was also exported out of Britain across the Roman Empire, with woollen goods noted as an export in the 1st century AD when Caesar invaded. Wool cloth continued to play a crucial role in the medieval English economy and was the most common textile for outer garments throughout the Medieval era.

Queen Elizabeth I's gloves, dating from the 16th century. © Alamy

3. Throughout the Tudor and Stuart era, gloves were symbols of elite social status

Gloves were invented long before the Tudor era - there was even a pair found in the tomb of Tutankhamen! However, during the Tudor and Stuart periods they became important for additional social meanings and were given as diplomatic gifts.

Two different craftsmen would be employed to make the most exquisite gloves: the glove maker themselves, and an embroiderer to create the beautifully decorative gauntlet (the part extending up the wrist). The patterns here could be intricate and full of meaning, relating to romantic love (functioning as an engagement token), or given as a gift to a monarch to show political allegiance, or as gifts at weddings or funerals.

A pair of Wellington’s boots, designed and worn by the Duke himself, on display at Walmer Castle, Kent.

4. Wellington boots were originally made of leather

The Duke of Wellington’s famous waterproof boots were made to his specifications by his shoemaker, Mr George Hoby, in the early 19th century. Even before his victory at Waterloo this style caught on, and became known as ‘Wellingtons’. These were originally created from a soft calfskin leather, but later in the century, when gum boots were invented, the moniker passed to them.

Other seamen used melted cod liver or goose fat mixed with lard and applied to their leather sea boots to add weatherfast properties (and an unfortunate pungent odour).

Men wearing ulsters (a type of long, loose waterproof overcoat) in early 20th century.

5. The ‘trench’ coat was actually invented by the Victorians

Though most people associate the coat with the First World War (hence the name), the origins of the trench coat can be found in the earlier innovations of the Victorian age.

In 1823 Scottish chemist Charles Macintosh patented his process of layering liquid rubber between cotton sheets, and created a new waterproof fabric. Unfortunately, this early version had a tendency to stiffen and begin to smell. Thanks to several other waterproofing deveolopments, by 1888 Thomas Burberry had patented his water-repellent gabardine fabric and the Burberry Tielocken coat was worn by many officers during the colonial South African Boer Wars.

When the First World War came along, several companies were selling versions of what we now know as the trench coat. The jacket’s weather-proof fabric, precise cut and practical details soon ensured it became the officer’s jacket of choice.

Adapted from an article for English Heritage by Fashion Historian Amber Butchart. Read the full text here. 

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